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Whenever curating a list of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. Yet, situated near the top among these culinary titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

An Surprise Recognition

This small Turkish eatery, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th finest restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors totally surprised.

“I am completely shocked,” says a owner’s son, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their modest shop securing such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

The compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its earlier charm. It fits just over 20 people and, except for the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to maintain a succulent texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a strong punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant full for below £25, comparable meals at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and feel calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this spot as a masterclass, to teach them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their very best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food didn’t train at fancy restaurants. “I feel very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its acclaim is due to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would support her to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning beyond its own doors. “I believe numerous people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the broader meaning of this culinary honour.